Anakao, Royal Hill of Ambohimanga, lemurs and Chocolaterie Robert, Madagascar

The journey from Isalo National Park to Toliara went through sapphire mining country. The most dangerous town in Madagascar, Ilakaka, is to be avoided at all costs. Full of criminals, dodgy gem dealers and guns, progress through the town took place at speed with windows closed. Photography unwise.

The area boomed after the discovery of a sapphire the size of a football. To learn about the area and the Madagascan blue sapphire, click here.

Anakao is a small fishing village one hour speedboat ride from Toliara. Here we relaxed in a resort run by Cathy, a highly capable and resourceful Frenchwoman.

 

Rooms were basic with cold water bucket showers and a personal beach front to relax and watch the sunset prior to food and wine with the others.

 

Next day some went snorkelling whereas others visited a nearby island to view nesting red tailed tropic birds and their chicks.

 

Local fishermen prepare to set sail from Anako.

 

On the outskirts of the capital 'Tana' is the Royal Palace. The monarchy was established by King Andrianampoinamerina following a process of uniting the various Medina tribes.

The main gate to the palace complex.

 

The Queen's palace shows elaborate paintwork and detailing.

 

The Kings palace is the rather austere brown building to the left. No way comparable with the grandeur of other 'monarchies'.

 

The royal tombs of the kings and queens. Constructed as 'houses' to suggest an ongoing presence after death, the crossed fascias at the top represent the horns of zebu cattle.

 

An opportunity to see up close more lemurs, some not seen before.

A sleepy brown lemur peers boringly at his observers.

 

A female coquerel's sifaka and her youngster. Hilarious to watch this youngster negotiate the tree branches in its first days away from clinging to mum's back. These sifakas have chestnut coloured arms and thigh with piercing yellow eyes.

 

The first time the youngster sees me.

 

The rare mongoose lemur. Scent plays an important role in marking out territory with this species.

 

The black and white ruffled lemurs prefer a diet of fruit so are very much affected by habitat disturbance. A larger size and more luxuriant fur mean they are more attractive to hunters. Therefore becoming rare. Usually produce twins or triplets which is unusual for the species. Young do not cling to the mother while she forages but placed in nests to wait her return.

 

The beautifully marked Jewelled chameleon.

 

The best Madagascan chocolate is Robert's Chocolat. All the other brands fail to compare and are imports. Click here to learn more about Chocolaterie Roberts.

 

And the best Madagascan beer is THB (Three Horses Beer) More information click here.

 

Time to farewell Claud, Fifi and Olivia (group leader, driver and assistant respectively. Not unusual for males in Madagascar to have 'female' names.

 

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Isalo National Park, the 'Grand Canyon' and the drive to Toliara, Madagascar

One of the more classier hotel lodges can be found on the edge of Isalo National Park. We had the opportunity to stay there prior to the hike in the 'grand canyon'.

 

The trek of the 'Grand Canyon' commences. Spectacular rock formations.

 

At the base of the canyon is a river with quiet pools and waterfalls to escape the heat.

 

On the floor of the canyon, red-bellied lemurs can be found. Rather than live in large troups, the lemurs live in monogomous pairs and take their parenting seriously.

 

The so called 'tourist' tree. Named after dumb tourists who don't apply adequate sun cream and peel, these trees constantly peel. Photosynthesis occurs in the trunk, hence the green colour, until leaves appear and the process returns to the canopy.

 

The strangling fig vine, known to kill and topple large trees.

 

Flatid leaf bugs. The nymphs secrete a white waxy material which deter predators such as birds as the sticky material lodges in the birds throat

 

The three eyed iguanid is more commonly seen in South America suggesting a land bridge existed in the past. The third 'eye' appears as a black dot on the top of the head (pineal eye). Contains a lens and retina but can't be used for sight. Sensitive to light, it measures periods of sunlight and regulates daily rhythm.

 

The radiated tortoise is common in the south and so named due to its distinct shell pattern. This pattern makes then appealing as pets which is illegal.

 

The sportive (or weasel) lemur is nocturnal but can be seen during the day resting in tree forks. It's 'blind' during the day so you can approach closely. This lemur is very vocal and active at night and can jump huge distances.

 

The verreaux sifaka is more common in the drier south. It is predominantly white to help better body temperature regulation. There are patches of colour including a chocolate coloured skull-cap. It obtains all the water it needs from the leaves it eats in contrast to other lemurs that drink. Notice the baby in the second image; difficult to focus through the canopy.

 

A common brown snake.

 

The Standing's day gecko is a Madagascan favourite. There are 25 colourful species. This one is emerald with blotches on head, back and flank. They can grow up to 30 cm in length.

 

In the southwest corner of the island is the Spiny (Reniala) Forest. A bizarre inhospitable forest of baobabs, cacti and succulents. About 95% of plants are found nowhere else.

This is the oldest baobab in the forest - over 1,000 yrs old with a girth of 30 metres. At some time, local tribesmen had carved 'foot-steps' in the side to assist with fruit picking. Baobabs do not have tree rings so age is determined by carbon 14 dating.

 

Thorny Didiereaceae have thorns that are adaptations of the skin in contrast to cacti where they are modified leaves. If cut, the plant oozes a poisonous latex which can cause blindness.

Species of Pachypodium or 'elephants foot' plant.

 

 

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