Mark's Travel Blog: Cirques of Salazie, Mafate and Cilaos, Reunion.

Reunion is an island 940 km off the coast of Madagascar. A French department it is one of the richest islands in the Indian Ocean. A designated World Heritage site due to its spectacular mountain landscapes and biodiversity. Most visitors are French and the island is under promoted in English speaking countries.

The French settled the island in 1642 and named it Mascarin. This was later changed to Ile Boubon by Louis XIV in 1648. After the French Revolution, the island's name changed to La Reunion ('joining' or 'meeting'). Following the Napoleonic wars ownership passed to Britain who introduced sugar and vanilla production. Five years later, the island returned to French governance.

THE CIRQUES

The whole island was once the massive dome of a prehistoric shield volcano. Three large subterranean lava chambers collapsed and along with wind, water and wind erosion formed the three cirques we know today (Salazie, Mafate, Cilaos). The island also has an active volcano - Piton de la Fournaise.

Cirque of Salazie is the greenest of the three cirques. Geologist believe the centre 'mountain' is not a lava plug but a massive rock bolder catapulted into the cirque from a nearby volcanic eruption. An indication of the massive forces in operation during the islands creation.

Multiple waterfalls can be seen along the cirque wall. Small hamlets exist situated on flattened areas or 'ilets' in the otherwise precipitous landscape.

The hike involves a steep climb to the Col de Fourche (1942 metres) the gateway to the Cirque of Mafate. At the Col, swirling clouds can be seen around the rock pinnacle. Note the size of the helicopter compared to the massive rock formations. Helicopters are the only way of bringing provisions to the cirque inhabitants and to rescue hikers with sprained ankles and more serious injuries.

Clare (left) is our experienced trekking guide. Born in Paris she has made Reunion her home. We look back into Cirque of Salazie

We trek down into the Cirque of Marfate to the riverside beauty spot of Trois Roches. The river flows through a bed of hardened volcanic larva and through a deep canyon hundreds of metres below.

Views from the river valley of Cirque Marfate.

Later in the afternoon, clouds are drawn up the side of the cirques creating an impressive display.

We stay in basic mixed dormitory accommodation or 'gites' like this one on the high plains at Marla (1645 m).

The view from the gite at Marla.

The owners cook the local cuisine for our enjoyment.

The inhabitants of the cirque hamlets use colourful paints for their wooden houses.

During the trek we always seem to find an idyllic place for our baguette lunch.

There are no insects to worry us eg mosquitos or flies but there are plenty of giant female golden orb spiders (see previous post). Wild passion fruit flowers.

Lentils are grown widely in the cirques and form an important part of local cuisine.

To enter the Cirque of Cilaos we have to hike to the top of this cirque 'wall' to enter via Col du Taibit (2200 m). This climb takes over an hour but the view back to Cirque of Mafate is breathtaking.

Views back to the hamlet of Marla and the Col de Fouche where we entered the cirque (recognise the col and rock pinnacle in upper right corner?)

Spectacular views from Col du Taibit into the neighbouring Cirque of Cialos. The town of Cialos can be seen in the distance.

Prior to our arrival at the col, a rock slide had blocked the path into Cirque of Cilaos. Although cleared we had to negotiate a narrow ledge with help of a rope. Serious drop to the valley floor.