The Volcano: Piton de la Fournaise, Reunion.

Piton de la Fournaise is one of the most active and unpredictable volcanoes in the world. The last major eruption was 2007 when it's main 900m wide crater collapsed by 300m. A less serious eruption occurred in 2010.

An important part of the experience is the approach to the volcano which is situated in the south east corner of the island.

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From the Cirque of Cilaos we travel through the Haute Plains (the Bavaria of the Indian Ocean), a luxurious and fertile area.

 

The greenery gradually gives way to the barren 'Martian' landscape of the volcanic perimeter. This is the vast windswept plain of ash - Plaine des Sables. This valley was gouged by the river Rivière des Remperts and back filled with ash from many eruptions over the centuries.

 

We stay in the Gite du Volcan, basic accommodation in the volcano perimeter. No hot water but great views, food and conversations with fellow travellers.

 

An early morning start takes us to Pas de Bellecombe, main gateway to the volcanic area. Spectacular views of one of the small scoria steam cones - Formica Leo, showing ochre colouration of the soil, and the vast lava plain with the volcano in the distance.

 

Long hike across the lava plain with views back to the crater rim, Pas de Bellecombe and showing the height of our descent onto the lava plain.

 

Most hikers are led to the volcano summit via a gradual path to the left and up. Our leader Clare, who often runs up and down mountains before breakfast, takes us directly up. Note the darker lava flows from recent eruptions. It's a long way to run back if the seismic needles start quivering.

Chapelle de Rosemount is a lava pinnacle and cavern at the base of the volcano.

 

Views back during the strenuous ascent of the volcano. The pumice moves under our feet and as we fall we rip our clothes and skin.

The main active Dolomieu crater, 900m wide. We are all exausted and cold and Clare takes a nap at the crater rim, seemingly unperturbed about the warning signs.

 

Mark - one of the great explorers and landscape/wildlife photographers of modern times.

 

We descend into the caldera of the adjacent inactive Borg crater to view the 'bottomless' lava crevasses and seismic monitoring equipment. Web cams have been set up to monitor activity. I decide not to look into the cameras and frighten scientists at the Piton Fournaise Seismic Monitoring Facility.

 

Lava tubes are long cavernous structures formed when the outer surfaces of lava flows solidify allowing internal flows to continue leaving 'caves'. They can be explored with a good head torch if you don't suffer from claustrophobia.

 

Aerial views of the 2007 eruption, and the main Dolomieu active crater and adjacent inactive Borg crater (which we explored).

 

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Prior to visiting the volcano we had a few days trekking from Cilaos. This involved a 3 hr climb to the Col du Taibit (830m). View of Cilaos during the climb.

 

At the Col, Clare and Eric (the mad French trekking guide from the Pyrrenes) pose for us. Where the cloud starts is a drop of over 1000m.

 

We stay at the Gite de la Caverne Dufour and once again enjoy great food.

 

At 4 am the next day, most hike to the summit of Piton des Neiges (3070m), the highest peak in the Indian Ocean (peak in the distance). I decide not to attempt this demanding climb.

 

Instead, I climb out of bed at 6 am to view the sunrise.

 

Next day we hike to the Belouve Forests - tamarind and giant fern trees and moss in abundance. The highlight is the beautiful Trou de Fer waterfall. Note the helicopter.

 

Spent the last days in the capital St Denis eating french delicacies and viewing creole architecture (more the former than the latter).

My amateur photography falls well short of capturing the beauty of this island. I will finish this post with some of my favourite images by real photographers.

Reference: images attributed to - click here

 

 

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Cirques of Salazie, Mafate and Cilaos, Reunion.

 

Reunion is an island 940 km off the coast of Madagascar. A French department it is one of the richest islands in the Indian Ocean. A designated World Heritage site due to its spectacular mountain landscapes and biodiversity. Most visitors are French and the island is under promoted in English speaking countries.

The French settled the island in 1642 and named it Mascarin. This was later changed to Ile Boubon by Louis XIV in 1648. After the French Revolution, the island's name changed to La Reunion ('joining' or 'meeting'). Following the Napoleonic wars ownership passed to Britain who introduced sugar and vanilla production. Five years later, the island returned to French governance.

 

THE CIRQUES

The whole island was once the massive dome of a prehistoric shield volcano. Three large subterranean lava chambers collapsed and along with wind, water and wind erosion formed the three cirques we know today (Salazie, Mafate, Cilaos). The island also has an active volcano - Piton de la Fournaise.

Cirque of Salazie is the greenest of the three cirques. Geologist believe the centre 'mountain' is not a lava plug but a massive rock bolder catapulted into the cirque from a nearby volcanic eruption. An indication of the massive forces in operation during the islands creation.

Multiple waterfalls can be seen along the cirque wall. Small hamlets exist situated on flattened areas or 'ilets' in the otherwise precipitous landscape.

 

The hike involves a steep climb to the Col de Fourche (1942 metres) the gateway to the Cirque of Mafate. At the Col, swirling clouds can be seen around the rock pinnacle. Note the size of the helicopter compared to the massive rock formations. Helicopters are the only way of bringing provisions to the cirque inhabitants and to rescue hikers with sprained ankles and more serious injuries.

 

Clare (left) is our experienced trekking guide. Born in Paris she has made Reunion her home. We look back into Cirque of Salazie

We trek down into the Cirque of Marfate to the riverside beauty spot of Trois Roches. The river flows through a bed of hardened volcanic larva and through a deep canyon hundreds of metres below.

 

Views from the river valley of Cirque Marfate.

 

Later in the afternoon, clouds are drawn up the side of the cirques creating an impressive display.

 

We stay in basic mixed dormitory accommodation or 'gites' like this one on the high plains at Marla (1645 m).

 

The view from the gite at Marla.

The owners cook the local cuisine for our enjoyment.

 

The inhabitants of the cirque hamlets use colourful paints for their wooden houses.

 

During the trek we always seem to find an idyllic place for our baguette lunch.

 

There are no insects to worry us eg mosquitos or flies but there are plenty of giant female golden orb spiders (see previous post). Wild passion fruit flowers.

 

Lentils are grown widely in the cirques and form an important part of local cuisine.

 

To enter the Cirque of Cilaos we have to hike to the top of this cirque 'wall' to enter via Col du Taibit (2200 m). This climb takes over an hour but the view back to Cirque of Mafate is breathtaking.

 

Views back to the hamlet of Marla and the Col de Fouche where we entered the cirque (recognise the col and rock pinnacle in upper right corner?)

 

Spectacular views from Col du Taibit into the neighbouring Cirque of Cialos. The town of Cialos can be seen in the distance.

 

Prior to our arrival at the col, a rock slide had blocked the path into Cirque of Cilaos. Although cleared we had to negotiate a narrow ledge with help of a rope. Serious drop to the valley floor.

 

After a long day hiking we reach the beautiful town of Cilaos.

 

Elaborate styled and painted buildings.

 

Compared to the gites, our 5 star hotel feels like 10 stars

 

 

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